There are few trades more widely practiced than those involved with clothing. Every garment is hand-spun, hand-woven, and hand-stitched, so the vast majority tend to only have a few articles of clothing. Clothing is nearly as costly as weapons – only the prices of metals keep it high, and used weapons are rarely cheaper than a single garment. By the time a person puts on even a simple apron a dozen people have been involved in making it, from collecting the fiber to spinning it out, dyeing it, Weaving it, turning the cloth into a garment, embellishing the garment, and selling the garment.
As a direct result of the cost and involvement, clothing is considered a major part of a person’s wealth, and the sale and trade of used clothing that is in good condition is common enough and broad enough that some will sell the shirt off their backs for a bit a coin for food, or the boots on their feet for a place to sleep – and get a decent amount for such.
Although style and fashion vary from Realm to Realm, as a whole, the Empire tends toward a bit of commonality under which a strong sense of the need for durability remains, on top of which has been layered the desire for decoration and embellishment. Embroidery is a dedicated guild, as is spinning, weaving, tailoring, and other related tasks. Most clothing is generalized, then when and if it can be afforded it is fit and trimmed out, and the Lace makers are always busy as the ribbon makers, especially in Aztlan, where they are quite loved.
Clothing is slow to make, but many will fashion simple pieces that are suitable within a range of kinds of clothing, according to the style and fashion of the time and place. These pieces can then be altered or fit, but clothing takes a week at minimum to fashion, and usually can be a few weeks as people often have more than one task at hand.
Clothing can be broken down into a few general categories, within which there are certain common pieces, the particular cut of which will vary from place to place.
Undergarments
Chemise: a lightweight, thigh length garment worn beneath the clothing.
Camisole: a lightweight garment of waist or hip length, worn beneath outwear.
Bloomers, a waist to mid-thigh length, lightweight garment worn beneath clothing. It is, essentially, underwear. While it is generally loose fitting in the south, bloomers are tightfitting in the north.
Petticoats, layered underskirts that rest on the hips.
Corsets, a midline support garment, often meant to shape and support, but also often worn outside garments if armored. A Corset and Stays is a combination garment meant to provide support.
Stays, a group of garments that often include a wire, meant to provide support. The Exilian call them “brahz”.
Binder, a long piece of fabric wrapped around the chest for support.
Girdles, a wide belt worn around the waist, beneath outer clothing. Girdles are generally shaped and tied for men, while Corsets are generally tied and shaped for women, but only in Sibola and Aztlan are any form of sumptuary laws around them enforced.
Footwear
Bootlets, a boot that rises to just above the ankle, or mid shin, and is pulled over the foot, not laced. They may have a heel, or may not, and that heel can be as high as four inches. Some will have a platform to the sole, while others will be more wedge shaped.
Boots, A knee high boot that is pulled over the foot, not laced, and has a heel, typically about an inch or two.
Leggers, a laced boot, mid-calf to knee in height, with or without heel, but always having a thick sole. They are considered working shoes and avoided by the wealthy.
Slippers, a light soled shoe that covers the foot, perhaps the ankle. They do not lace, only slip on.
Sandals, thick soled, open shoes that strap around the foot and are the primary footwear. Some will protect toes, most will not. They must be strapped and buckled or laced and tied.
Clogs, solid, basic shoes that come up to an ankle. Some will be made from strips of shaped wood bound by leather; others will be woven. Clogs are the most common kind of shoe, and in very wet areas, they will have a set of risers beneath them, usually to stay out of mud or puddles.
Shoes, up to the ankle, solid sided and often fashioned from layered fabric, then laced and buckled around the foot. They often have a thick, padded sole.
Headwear
Beret, any of several slightly different hats that rest on the top of the head and mostly appear to fit in so that folks have a head covering. In some places, this is the most common kind of headgear, and almost required (Lyonese).
Range Hat, a very special kind of hat that Tinghabel calls a “cowboy hat” that is worn most often in Dorado. It has a wide brin, a doubled crown, and is useful for keeping both sun and rain out of the eyes and off the face.
Cap, a tight-fitting hat that has a single broad rim in the front to keep sun and rain out of the face.
Dress Hat, usually pinned to an updo, is meant to be worn with a fancy dress, such as a gown. They can be quite dramatic and startling, and if you ask me are a waste of money, though Tinghabel loves them. I am pretty certain it is because she sits in them while spying.
Formal Hat, the equivalent of a Dress hat, but less flashy. Often with a narrow brim, and either domed or flat at the top, they are worn mostly in Sibola.
Tops
Blouse, a pullover top that is never longer that the hips. Worn by everyone who isn’t wearing a tunic.
Shirt, a laced or fastened top. Fancy ones will have buttons of horn or ivory.
Vest, a sleeveless top, fastened, sometimes worn over a tunic or camisole.
Tunic, the standard wear of pretty much everyone on Wyrlde, even among the Savage lands or the Lemurians, the Tunic is the go to default garment. A normal tunic will not have sleeves and hang to about mid-thigh. Fancy tunics will have sleeves of assorted length. Tunics are meant to be belted, and are pulled over the head, not fastened. Tunics come in three basic lengths: Calf, Thigh, and Hip. The lighter fabrics are used for Undertunics, and heavier for Overtunics, both of which are usually sleeveless or short sleeved.
Sweater, pullover tops, almost always knitted or crocheted, made from wool and tufted cotton to ensure that they stay war, often trimmed with fur. Winter clothing.
Waistcoat, an overgarment, sleeveless, laced or fastened in the back, from shoulder to waist, and normally highly ornamented.
Doublet, a laced or fastened cold weather garment worn over a chemise, usually, made similarly to a sweater otherwise. Fancy ones may be made from expensive fabrics. Doublets have fitted long sleeves that a narrow at the wrist and wide at the shoulders, sometimes even set to puff out. Winter doublets are also often padded.
Jerkin, A leather or hide doublet, without the fancy stuff.
Bottoms
Shorts, are short Breeches, usually mid-thigh, sometimes a bit shorter for the daring.
Breeches, using a loop fastener, breeches are typically just past knee length and tie beneath them, loose fitting, and fairly common among tradesfolk.
Trousers, long breeches, reaching to the ankle, that are tied along the hips and belted at the waist.
Pants, a fitted pair of trousers, usually tight fitting at the waist area and wide at the ankle area. Pants are often made of durable material and worn by working folk. They tie at the waist through a draw rope.
Tights, knitted leg coverings similar to trousers, sometimes woven of a light material such as silk instead.
Culottes, which are a kind of very loose fitting, skirt-like pair of shorts, often designed to resemble kilts.
Skirts, which all come in Fitted, Sheath, and Wide forms, and can vary in length from mid-thigh to ankle. The two most common forms are used in part to suggest married status – knee length or shorter for unmarried, and below the knee for married. Fitted skirts are popular among the nobility and the wealthy, especially for women, who need not move quickly.
Kilts, a slitted kilt may be worn by anyone, and is a particularly popular form for warriors, usually falling to the knee and composed of leather or similarly tough strips layered over one another.
Coats
Dusters, an ankle length coat, heavy fabric, durable, split from hem to waist for riding.
Sea Coats, an open front coat that fastens beneath two wide lapels, often worn by sailors and marines originally but adopted by women after it became very popular in Aztlan. Often dyed very bright colors, they have an attached broad belt. Made from velvet for the wealthy but felt is common among the merchant classes. Back in another life, we called them Peacoats.
War Coats, mid-calf length, heavy material, treated against rain, these coats are the standard issue to soldiers. Padded slightly and lined, they are meant to protect against the cold and elements and became popular following the Goblin Wars.
Envoy Coats, popularized by Envoys these are lightweight, calf length, hooded coats with multiple pockets that are only accessible from inside the coat. Broad sleeves longer than the arms and long sashes attached at the back separate them as well from the War and Sea coats. A braided cord can be tightened around the hood to hold it in place. Often white, with gold accents, they are very loose and flowing.
Surcoats, which are knee length garments, short sleeved, with open sides, belted or sashed and emblazoned (usually with braiding and embroidery) with some seal, such as a House or Liege.
Wraps
Cloak, almost a basic essential found and owned by everyone, cloaks are often heavy, warm, and padded, and always have a wide hood to them. Cloaks are long, and never split, and often have treatment for warmth and waterproofing.
Cape, from mid back to thighs in length, capes are used to cover the shoulders, often attaching via a broach or similar device at the shoulders. Capes may or may not have a hood.
Shawl, a short piece of fabric, often knitted or crocheted, to cover the shoulders.
Sarong, a wide, long piece of fabric, particularly found in the Sea Realms, used to wrap the body and affixed using a broach of some sort at one or both shoulders.
Robe, an open from, full length (often trailing along the ground) garment, typically worn by specialists as a uniform of sorts, and frequently featuring multiple pockets within the folds of the voluminous garment. Robes do not have hoods, and often are worn with cloaks – sometimes underneath them.
Caftan, longer than a Sarong, with a hole for the head, this broad piece of fabric is pulled over the head and then wrapped around the body, covering down to the knees and shins. Some catans have been known to have a hood attached. Caftans are worn mostly in Lyonese.
Dresses
Sheath, a Sheath dress is form fitted to the person, usually with extra fabric inside to enable later adjustments.
Shift, a shift dress is the most common form of dress, a single piece, pulled over the top, without shaping.
Wrap, A wrap dress is cut so it is open in the front, with wide, long sleeves. It is wrapped around the body and tied, often worn by the youthful with more than a little bit of exposure.
Laced, this is a dress that is laced, often up the front, sides, and back, though it can be in any combination, and frequently features some sort of closure as well as ties.
Kirtles, an underdress, usually joined by an Apron or coveralls. Kirtles have wide straps that go over the shoulder, and often lace along the sides.
Jackets
Shrug, a short jacket that comes to the waist or slightly above it, and ties across the chest. May have sleeves of any length.
Riding, a short jacket, usually just above the hips, that has a wide hood attached and is long sleeved, with wide sleeves that enable rain to drip away. Often waxed or otherwise treated to be rainproof.
Workwear
Apron, A work garment that has a loop to go around the back of the neck, and ties in the back, covering the entire front of a person while they work, protecting their clothes.
Coverall, a single piece combining trousers and vest, tying at the back of the neck or supported by straps over the shoulders. Used broadly in work that is very messy, made from thick, durable material.
Poncho, a large piece of fabric with a hole in the center for the head, it drapes down to the waist or so. Made of lightweight material, it is worn mostly in hot and or humid climates, sometimes with nothing beneath it. A Serape is a working version of the same, made of a thicker, more durable fabric.
Gowns
A gown is a formal garment that is cut in a feminine style, to enhance the shape and appearance of a woman. Gowns consist of five layers, starting with an underdress, then a midi-dress, then an overdress, then a jacket, and finally a wrap. They will often involve the wearing of girdles, corsets, petticoats, and stays. Gowns are exceptionally expensive, richly decorated, and made from light to heavy fabrics that are often more costly than some people’s entire homes.
A typical Gown is worn to a highly formal event or for a similar occasion, and all gowns are fitted, often very precisely. A typical gown will take two to four months to fashion and are sewn in a manner that allows them to be adjusted over time and years. A wealthy woman may often only own a single gown in her lifetime, and will spend time adding to or removing decoration, embroidery, and accessories around it in order to give it a fresh appearance, some even going so far as to die a gown multiple times and have it resewn after.
Gowns are priced in Sovereigns and Crowns, never less.
Suits
A suit is a formal garment cut in a masculine style, to enhance the shape and appearance of a man. It will include either breeches or trousers, a shirt, an overtunic, a vest, and a coat. Girdles are pretty much a requirement, as is a broad sash or belt. Shoulders are often accentuated, and the coat is considered the most important part of the whole, usually knee length with wide sleeves (though narrow sleeves are popular in Sibola).
A normal Suit will take six to eight weeks to make, is always fitted, and will be richly embroidered at each piece. Sleeves will often have lace ends, and hems will be dressed with metallic thread. Most men will have one Suit if they are moderately wealthy, and will rarely change it, preferring instead to add a new one.
Suits are priced in Sovereigns and Crowns but are rarely as expensive as Gowns or Swens are.
Swens
A Swen is a formal garment cut in a style that is neither masculine nor feminine, to enhance the shape and appearance of a nonbinary person. Like suits and gowns, a swen is richly decorated and always pricey, as well as being fitted. Undergarments are required, and because of the variety of bodies, there is never a simple design. Swens are sometimes bought for folks who are not nonbinary, and one unusual aspect is that they are sometimes cheaper than gowns or suits, although they are also always priced in crowns and sovereigns.
Adventurer Clothing
Adventurers tend to prefer useful clothing that protects them and doesn’t limit them, while allowing them movement. Most adventure clothing is custom made and designed. Some examples of it are:
